Engineering and manufacturing

Fashion and textiles pattern cutter

Producing a variety of products from clothing and fashion items to leather goods, soft furnishings, marine and medical textiles.

Summary

A pattern cutter working within the clothing and textiles industry can be employed by a large, medium, small or micro size business, producing a variety of products from clothing and fashion items to leather goods, soft furnishings, marine and medical textiles. The role of a pattern cutter involves interpreting a product design brief and drafting patterns that reflect the design and technical specifications. They can use various pattern cutting methods to create the patterns such as, adjusting and shaping a standard pattern ‘block’, modifying a non-standard pattern base taken from the company library, or creating a pattern using ‘modelling’, which involves draping and pinning fabric over a mannequin and hand-cutting the fabric to form the pattern base. Pattern production software packages are also commonly used to create sewn product patterns, though in smaller businesses pattern cutters still produce patterns manually or use a combination of both manual and computerised systems. Initially, a pattern cutter will work autonomously drafting the prototype pattern. They will work closely with a sample machinist to produce a made-up sample of the design, using the prototype pattern. They will then work as part of the production team to review the sample. The team involved will depend on the size of the company and may include designers, garment technologists and sample machinists. The team will analyse the sample and discuss and agree any changes required. The pattern cutter will then make adjustments to the pattern and produce the master pattern to be used in production, incorporating technical data such as balance marks, notches, seam allowance, grain lines, cutting instructions, size and component name.

Knowledge, skills and behaviours (KSBs)

K1:

Different customer requirements e.g. quality standards, product finish, timescale

K2:

The supply chain relevant to the manufacture of sewn products

K3:

The input and output of goods and services relevant to production e.g. delivery timescales, lead times, production deadlines

K4:

The properties and construction of fabric and materials e.g. woven, knitted, non woven

K5:

The behaviour and characteristics of materials used to produce sewn products e.g. stretchy, slippery, stiff, dense, shrinkage, fabric weight, drape, print, finish

K6:

Specifications relevant the production of clothing and sewn products e.g. seam allowances, tolerances, hem depths

K7:

Quality standards and specifications relevant to the production of sewn products e.g. seam types, stitch types, tolerances, product finish

K8:

Pattern fault diagnosis and rectification procedures e.g. poor fit, sizing, mismatched seams, incorrect markings

K9:

Quality approval systems and control processes e.g. Inspection of samples, materials and products against specifications

K10:

Clothing or sewn product design briefs evaluation inform pattern production

K11:

Drafting standard block patterns

K12:

Adapting block patterns to reflect given clothing or sewn product designs briefs

K13:

Pattern construction techniques e.g. drafting, measuring and marking

K14:

Standard and international sizing relevant to the item in production e.g. ladies wear, children’s wear, tent diameters, car seat dimensions

K15:

Measuring techniques relevant to the product e.g. critical measurement points, girth measurement, length and breadth measurements

K16:

Calculations relevant to the production of clothing or sewn products e.g. ease, hems, seam allowance

K17:

The principles of grading e.g. grading methods appropriate to product type, size, fit and proportion, grade rules and applications

K18:

Specialist terminology used in pattern construction e.g. armscye, grain, balance, apex

K19:

The tools of the trade e.g. draft paper, markers, curves scissors, punchers, notchers

K20:

Material cutting processes and techniques e.g. spreading, specialist cutting equipment, lay planning processes, placement prints

K21:

Different construction methods and manufacturing processes

K22:

Sample development and sample review techniques e.g. fit, style, construction analysis

K23:

Pattern review techniques, analysis and rectification processes

K24:

Relevant computerised pattern production systems e.g. CAD, Graphics software, digitisers, scanners, virtual modelling

K25:

Technical documents and recording systems used in pattern production e.g. tech-packs, specifications, production make-up sheets

K26:

Critical path management processes to ensure pattern production meets timescales and deadline

K27:

The company’s communication protocol across all levels and departments involved in the pattern production and manufacturing process

K28:

Health, safety, welfare and environmental policies including safe working practices and workplace risks

K29:

Workplace policies e.g. employer and employee legal obligations, employees’ rights and responsibilities, equality and diversity

K30:

Compliance requirements in relation to garments or sewn products e.g. safety, fibre content, legislation

K31:

Legislative and contractual requirements with clients, services or government bodies

Technical Educational Products

ST0541
ST0541: Fashion and textiles pattern cutter (Level 3) Approved for delivery
Reference:
OCC0541
Status:
Approved occupation imageApproved occupation
Average (median) salary:
£23,348 per year
SOC 2020 code:
5413 Tailors and dressmakers
  • SOC 2020 sub unit groups:
    • 5413/99 Tailors and dressmakers n.e.c.
    • 5412/01 Footwear makers and repairers
    • 5412/02 Leather workers (excludes leather dressing)
    • 5413/02 Dressmakers
    • 5413/06 Tailors
S1:

Read, interpret and assess design briefs, specifications and instructions

S2:

Identify clothing or sewn product design features

S3:

Identify possible constraints e.g. design issues, materials, manufacturing capacity

S4:

Draft block patterns to style/size/measurements required

S5:

Take and record accurate measurements if required

S6:

Include all relevant technical information e.g. balance marks, notches, seam allowance, grain lines and size and component name and cutting instructions

S7:

Where available use relevant IT systems e.g. CAD, Graphics software, digitisers, scanners, virtual modelling

S8:

Adapt standard block pattern to reflect given designs

S9:

Ensure patterns are compatible with the production process

S10:

Include all relevant technical information e.g. balance marks, notches, grain lines, size

S11:

Work with the sample machinists and oversee sample production

S12:

Where available use relevant IT systems e.g. CAD, Graphics software, digitisers, scanners, virtual modelling

S13:

Review the sample product and evaluate the prototype pattern, assessing the size, fit, shape, fall, style and design

S14:

Trouble shoot and resolve pattern and design issues as required

S15:

Identify and agree the required pattern rectifications

S16:

Make agreed adjustment to the pattern e.g. add width or length, redefine style lines

S17:

Create the final master pattern, include clear relevant information e.g. component information, size, grain line, cutting instructions

S18:

Where available use relevant IT systems e.g. CAD, graphics software, digitisers, scanners, virtual modelling

S19:

Provide production staff or supplier with final master pattern and production information

S20:

Provide support and advise relating to any relevant production issues e.g. assembly watch points, component issues, fabric defects

S21:

Complete and maintain accurate working documents throughout the pattern production process

S22:

Develop and maintain effective communication with sewing production staff to ensure a productive work environment

S23:

Accurately complete work documentation e.g. tech packs, specifications or electronic systems and understand the consequences of incorrectly completed records

Technical Educational Products

ST0541 image
ST0541: Fashion and textiles pattern cutter (Level 3) Approved for delivery
Reference:
OCC0541
Status:
Approved occupation imageApproved occupation
Average (median) salary:
£23,348 per year
SOC 2020 code:
5413 Tailors and dressmakers
  • SOC 2020 sub unit groups:
    • 5413/99 Tailors and dressmakers n.e.c.
    • 5412/01 Footwear makers and repairers
    • 5412/02 Leather workers (excludes leather dressing)
    • 5413/02 Dressmakers
    • 5413/06 Tailors
B1:

Take ownership and accept responsibility for pattern production work and strive to improve product quality and pattern production processes

B2:

Be responsive to changing priorities and requirements of the sewn product industry, demonstrating initiative, confidence and self-motivation

B3:

Demonstrate a methodical and calm approach to work place pressures, deadlines and production demands

B4:

Work positively as part of a team, taking account of equality and diversity

B5:

Demonstrate assertiveness, resilience and confidence when communicating views and ideas that will benefit pattern production

B6:

Be reflective on skills, knowledge and behaviours and seek opportunities to develop and advance skills in response to the evolving production environment and technologies

B7:

Have a safety first attitude, ensuring the safety of self and others as appropriate in a sewn product manufacturing environment

Technical Educational Products

ST0541 image
ST0541: Fashion and textiles pattern cutter (Level 3) Approved for delivery
Reference:
OCC0541
Status:
Approved occupation imageApproved occupation
Average (median) salary:
£23,348 per year
SOC 2020 code:
5413 Tailors and dressmakers
  • SOC 2020 sub unit groups:
    • 5413/99 Tailors and dressmakers n.e.c.
    • 5412/01 Footwear makers and repairers
    • 5412/02 Leather workers (excludes leather dressing)
    • 5413/02 Dressmakers
    • 5413/06 Tailors